We left Cuttyhunk bright and early at 7 am on July 13th to head to Lake Tashmoo on Martha’s Vineyard, a 15-nautical mile journey. The safest and easiest passage between the Buzzards Bay side of the Elizabeth Islands and Vineyard Sound is Quicks Hole Passage is between Pasque and Nashawena Islands, two more Elizabeth Islands.
Lake Tashmoo became a favorite stop on our cruises many years ago, but is now a must-do so that we can visit with our friend, Colin who lives on his boat, Tortuga, her in Lake Tashmoo during the summer months. We met Colin in 2016 here in Lake Tashmoo. That story is part of my OPB blog post. 😉
The three guys spent a good part of the visit discussing various boat projects, especially future ones for Tortuga.
Colin is always a generous host to those of us passing through on the Vineyard, giving us a ride and showing us things we might not otherwise have an opportunity to see. He loaned us his car for a grocery run into Vineyard Haven. Cruisers always appreciate an easy grocery run!
The next morning was another early morning departure, Nantucket bound. Did I already mention this might be a whirlwind cruise?
Along the way, the seas were calm enough and the sun was on the right side of the boat (meaning giving it the right light, not meaning “starboard,” although it was in fact both the starboard and the right light) to take a few photos of Magnolia underway. Anthony requested some new photos for a new boat card. I was their previous boat card photographer for S/V Magnolia while in the Bahamas. You know, Captains, if you didn’t change boats you wouldn’t need new cards (and that might be an inside joke for you know who.)
On July 10th, after a 3-day return home for a commitment, we made our second departure from Shennecossett to head out again and meet up with Magnolia at Block Island. We only spent one night at Block before heading eastward, so there isn’t much to write about, especially since I have blogged about BI several times in the past. Our goal for this summer to show Anthony and Annette some of New England’s treasures that they may have missed on previous journeys north. It’s going to be a whirlwind!
It took us 5 hours to travel the 36 nautical miles from Block to Cuttyhunk at an average of 7.2 knots. I remember the days when it would take 8 hours in the sailboat.
We always anchor in the outer harbor at Cuttyhunk, rather than take a $45 inside mooring, as long as the conditions are safe for that decision. With our 77 pound Rocna anchor, it isn’t a hard decision today. Al chose his old anchor spot near Pease Ledge……
Dan and Marcia on Cutting Class were working their way westward towards home. Perfect timing for a get-together as our paths crossed.
I’ve already done a blog post on Cuttyhunk from last year’s summer trip, so I’ll try not to repeat too much.
The next morning, another foggy gray beginning, we shared our tradition of breakfast at the Cuttyhunk Fishing Club with Anthony and Annette.
After breakfast, we need to work off the calories so we head up to the highest point.
The views from the lookout are quite foggy.
We had to show Anthony and Annette the pizza place, “Sopranos”, although we have never eaten there.
The day brightened to a nice warm glow. Al generously took Annette and I to the beach for a walk, and hopefully some sea glass finds.
There was only a few bits of sea glass to be found; not like the old days….. so we walked over to the other side. Nothing there either.
Later in the day, there is Kindred Spirit, with rain showers in the distance. Thanks for the nice photos, Anthony!
It’s been a very long time since I wrote a blog post, over a year. I made a conscious decision to only blog when there was something new or different to describe. That certainly doesn’t mean that there has been nothing new or different in our lives, it only means that I couldn’t necessarily relate it to boating or travel (and life often gets in the way of writing blogs.)
We had a long stretch of rainy and chilly weather here in New England which made it feel as though our boating season would never begin. But by late June we were ready to begin our summer cruising with Magnolia who arrived here to join us. Magnolia sat on our mooring ball out at Avery Point while her crew took a road trip to a family event in Michigan.
Upon their return and after both a cookout with friends at Shennecossett and a get-together on Magnolia (and why did we all forget to take photos of that???), our boats were ready to get underway. We had to make it a short and interrupted beginning to the longer cruise due to a commitment back at home, so we chose West Harbor on Fishers Island as a first stop.
We decided that West Harbor would actually be a good destination given the July 4th holiday craziness on the water as well as our time/distance constraints. And Magnolia had never been there.
The Dumplings are two tiny islands just outside of West Harbor, Fishers Island. North Dumpling is owned by Dean Kamen, an inventor whose projects include the insulin pump, an all-terrain wheelchair, portable water purification systems and robotic prosthetic limbs……and the Segway, a self-balancing electric scooter. Kamen and North Dumpling’s quirky story has been featured in an article, “Welcome to the Secret Island of an Eccentric Genius.”
South Dumpling is uninhabited, but has a little history of its own, as described by Robert Anderson, Jr. whose family owned the island from 1964 -1980. South Dumpling is now held in a land trust, the Avalonia Land Conservancy, Inc.
For the 15 years that we have made the 5 mile trip, the one thing I always look for is the sea wall painted with the words, “Where the Wild Things Are.” I ponder about what prompted the idea and imagine the laughter and enjoyment that the family must have had as they engaged in the project.
After settling in, the warm July 4th weather called for a dinghy ride around the harbor to check out the sights and see what’s new. For a small harbor there is a lot to see.
The harbor is lined with lovely old family homes, docks, and boats.
We slept well and awoke to……………… uh oh… The next day didn’t “dawn” at all until very late in the morning. This thick fog overlaid West Harbor and well across the southern New England islands.
The fog departed very slowly, and by early afternoon we were rewarded with a sunny warm day – the four of us jumped into the dink for a visit to the island.
Fishers Island provides a dinghy dock right at the yacht club for people to use and come ashore (take the hint, SYC?)
A few geographic facts about Fishers Island:
about 9 miles long and 1 mile wide, located at the eastern end of Long Island Sound
2 miles off the southeastern coast of Connecticut across Fishers Island Sound.
11 miles from the tip of Orient Point, Long Island
2 miles from Napatree Point, Rhode Island
And yet the island is part of the town of Southold in Suffolk County in the state of New York.
About 250 people live year-round on the island but the population swells to about 2,000 during peak summer weekends. In 1930 the population reached a peak of 1500, split between year-round residents and Fort Wright personnel. The closure of the last hotel in 1941 and of Fort Wright in the late 1940’s resulted in a dramatic decrease in year-round residents.
Fishers is a quiet place. The wealthy families that have spent generations summering here and the year-round residents want to keep it that way. There are no hotels, only one restaurant and one small cafe, one liquor store, two gift shops, an ice cream store and a grocery store. There are two private clubs, Hay Harbor and Fishers Island Club, that provide a social life for members and offer world class golf. I read an article that Fishers Island is known as the “anti-Hamptons” and is proud of it.
Our primary goal for the afternoon was to enjoy ice cream. Al and Anthony need regular infusions. “Toppers” is the little ice cream shop with a dog theme. Yes, a dog theme. It’s a cute idea, but the flavors all have clever names that make it a little hard to know what you are getting without a closer look.
We walked up the road to The Henry L. Ferguson Museum. After wandering around the displays of photos and artifacts from Fishers Island history, we found ourselves conversing with the director, Pierce Reynolds. This man knows his island history and is very adept at sharing the facts and fables of Fishers.
Here was my chance! Why, why is Fishers Island part of New York and not Connecticut?????? The question has bothered me for years. What’s the story, Pierce? Here is the short version —
The Pequot Indians called Fishers Island “Munnawtawkit.” In 1614, the Dutch explorer, Adrian Block, discovered the island and named it Visher’s Island.
In 1640, John Winthrop, Jr. son of the famous Governor Winthrop, the founder of Boston, obtained grants for Fishers Island from the Massachusetts Bay Colony and the Connecticut General Court in 1641. Winthrop hoped to secure his rights to the island by applying to both colonies because the boundaries of these new colonies were somewhat fluid and had not been fixed yet.
In 1657, when Winthrop became governor of Connecticut, he had included Fishers Island, where he owned the land. But, in 1664 a land patent granted to the Duke of York, brother of King Charles II, included all islands in Long Island Sound — apparently giving Fishers Island to the Province of New York.
Fishers Island remained in the Winthrop family of Connecticut until 1863, in spite of the change from Connecticut to New York, when ownership passed to Robert R. Fox, and then to Edmund and Walton Ferguson, also of Connecticut.
In 1879, a joint commission from Connecticut and New York officially settled the CT-NY dispute by affirming that New York would have legal title to Fishers Island. In return, Connecticut then received full title to the Fairfield County panhandle, which intrudes into New York’s Westchester County.
And yet, and yet…..Fishers Island’s zip code is 06390, corresponding to Connecticut zip codes that begin with “06”, while other residential zip codes in New York State begin with “1”. Hmmmm. Pierce says that is for expediency since the mail is contracted to come from the Connecticut coast because there is no public transportation from anywhere else.
So there you have it.
We walked around a small section of the western end of the island, the only really public part of Fishers. Some of the sights —
The Fishers Island fireworks were Friday evening’s entertainment. A boat is the best place to watch a fireworks’ display. Especially after you re-anchor farther away.
Sailing races are frequently held in West Harbor as part of the Fishers Island Yacht Club activities. We had great spectator seats from our boat as racers passed by, sometimes quite closely. We may have gone to the “dark side” but we still appreciate sails filled with wind, silently propelling a boat across the water.
We hadn’t been to Montauk yet this summer so when it became clear that Montauk was the only place where Eleanor Q and Kindred Spirit could/would cross paths, it became our last stop of the 3 weeks. We were eager to reconnect with our dear friends from Maryland, Mary Marie and Frank.
Passing by on our way to drop the anchor.
Eleanor Q, a Gozzard 41, at anchor in Lake Montauk – such a handsome vessel!
Arriving in the “lake” before 1 pm gave us plenty of time to say hello, hug and play. Montauk is a perfect lace for water play. It is very large, about 7-8 feet deep through the entire body of water, and is never crowded with boats. Let’s get out the toys!!
Al drops his little Snark, Petunia, into the water and takes off. There’s that leg again, casually hanging over the side.
Ships passing in the night? Does the afternoon of the solar eclipse count as night?
Mary Marie and I cruise around in our kayaks. Check out the Snark in the background – that’s Frank giving it a go.
A closer look at Frank in the Snark.
August 21st was the day of the big solar eclipse. You might have heard about it? 😉 We weren’t really prepared for the big event – no special glasses or set up for viewing it. I tried a backwards over my shoulder photo, but as you can see below, it’s not impressive at all. Oh well. We were all out playing in the little boats during the prime eclipse time.
Solar Eclipse??? My over the shoulder backwards photo didn’t capture a thing. If there was anything to capture.
After our playtime, rest time, and clean up time, we had socializing time!
Frank and Al relax in Eleanor Q’s cockpit.
Ems prepared a lovely shrimp dinner for us in her galley.
It was awesome to meet up with Frank and Mary Marie here in Montauk!!
A Montauk sunset
The next day wasn’t as sunny but was certainly warm enough for a dinghy ride to get ice cream. Frank has an ice cream problem just like Al does.
Ben and Jerry’s ice cream. Yum! Where were YOU, Anthony?? We were missing the 3rd member of the Three Musketeers of Ice Cream.
These two catamaran style boats cruised around the lake giving tours. Notice the colorful bean bags for seating?
That evening we all had dinner on Kindred Spirit.
My first ride in Petunia, with Al. Two people actually fit in that little hull, but you do get a wet bottom.
Frank takes Ems for a ride.
The Quigleys are really moving along!
OK! Enough is enough. It was time for me to try sailing this little boat. Lake Montauk is the perfect place for a first time.
My first solo sail.
I just might get the hang of this little boat sailing.
We decided to go to The Inlet for our last evening in Montauk (when don’t we go to The Inlet when we are in Montauk?? Maybe never?)
The Inlet sits right on the channel into Montauk.
A delicious dinner, a great view, and wonderful company!
Eleanor Q left early the next morning for home, taking the offshore route. We were able to follow their progress on AIS (otherwise known as friendly stalking among cruisers.)
Left side – out and around the tip of Montauk. Right side – from the eastern end of Long Island to southern New Jersey.
We departed as well and headed home to Connecticut.
Passing by Race Rock Light built between 1871 and 1878 to mark the dangerous set of rocks southwest of Fishers Island.
Race Rock Light, standing 67 feet above the water. Some people it is haunted.
Once we pass through The Race, we know we are nearly home again. The familiar sights greet us.
The Block Island ferries – the “slow” one and the fast ferry passing it by.
Our Ledge Light marking the entrance to New London Harbor.
UCONN’s Avery Point campus.
Shennecossett Yacht Club ahead! And our mooring is just past that breakwater on the right.