Summer Cruising – Nantucket

Thursday, August 15 and time to move on to another harbor. After a crew meeting to discuss the weather and sea conditions we all agreed that we should shoot over to Nantucket for a couple of days.

I just revisited three previous blog posts about trips to Nantucket. Each of them covered some great places and things about Nantucket. I have a love-hate relationship with Nantucket. I love the history, the cobblestone Main Street and architecture, the Whaling Museum, Siasconset, and the open spaces and beaches, but……. the amount of wealth and summer crowds are off putting at times. Lots of times. 

Our past trips for a more detailed look at the island: 

Given how much has already been in the blog about Nantucket, it gets harder to find anything new or fresh which is true for most of our New England cruising. We never tire of our home cruising grounds but do try to find something new on each trip.

Ok, I do post a photo of the Brant Point Lighthouse every time we come to Nantucket. It is relatively tiny at 26 feet high, but it is the official greeter to boats entering the harbor. The station was established in 1746, automated in 1965, and is still in operation.
The conditions were perfect for rafting so we anchored together in our favorite anchor location (a secret.)
“Blondie”, a 94 feet long, 23 feet wide anchored in the harbor. At that size you can carry some serious toys. That is some slide.

It is a lengthy dinghy ride to reach the public dinghy dock, but anchoring is much less expensive than taking a mooring here. Every penny saved there means more pennies available for enjoyment on shore. Nantucket is not cheap! The yachts at the docks are visible on the way to the dinghy docks. Visible but certainly not close to the public docks.

Entering the part of the harbor near the dinghy docks. Nice little places.
The  steeple of the historic Unitarian Meeting House  rises above the harbor. Built  in 1809 and updated in the 1840s, the Meeting House is home to the  Carl Wendte collection of 1844 trompe l‘oeil paintings, the  1831 Goodrich organ, the massive  Portuguese bell, as well as a collection of historic artifacts.
I am putting this on our list for the next visit – take a tour inside.
The dinghy docks are crowded with large “dinghies” that never seem to leave the dock, making it quite a challenge to tie up and climb over other dinghies to reach the dock. One time there was a dockhand there just to help people get to their dinghy.
The Harbormaster’s office. The walk to the center of town from here is not too bad.
On the walk to town we always pass this gallery. In 2019 the statue on the
bench was the thoughtful older gentlemen. This year it is a young couple. I don’t know how often it is changed, but it is kind of cool.
Whales and Nantucket go together. 

The four of us took a bus tour around the island, something we had done in 2019 and thought Don and Cindy might enjoy this overview of the island. Although it was a repeat for us, there were a few new things to see and learn, but it is really hard to take photos from a moving bus!

Del Rose, our guide, was entertaining and fun.
Nantucket has 12 cemeteries (Does that seem like a lot of cemeteries for a small island? On the other hand, the earliest European settlement on Nantucket was 1641, over 380 years ago. That would be a lot of people…… I guess.)
Trivia from the tour — Situated in one of the island’s oldest neighborhoods, this Craftsmen bungalow with Christmas themed white walls, green trim, and red roof stands out among the grey shingled houses of Nantucket. This house, built about 1916, is the only home made of stucco. 

The bus took us past the Nantucket Cottage Hospital, originally founded in 1911 and supported by the entire community, seasonal and year-round residents, to meet the health care needs of the island.

Top: The original Cottage Hospital founded in 1911.
Bottom: The new facilities built in 1957 to meet the expanding needs of the island.
The new Nantucket Cottage Hospital opened in February 2019 and is affiliated with Mass General Brigham. I included this because weeks later, coincidentally, we chatted with a man at The Oar on Block Island who flies from Massachusetts to Nantucket regularly to receive his chemo. 
Another bit of bus tour trivia from Siasconset, one of our favorite spots onto island.
The best stop on the tour is Sankaty Lighthouse located at the easternmost point on the island. It was built in 1850, was automated in 1965, and is still in operation. It was one of the first lighthouses in the United States to receive a Fresnel lens.
Of course you must take photos with the lighthouse in the background.
Egan Maritime Shipwreck and Lifesaving Institute  
I think I would like to put this on my to-do list for the next visit to Nantucket. As in visit it rather than just drive by.

We strolled around the Farmers & Artisans Market on Saturday (August 17) morning.

I love the cobblestone streets of Nantucket.

We strolled around the Farmers & Artisans Market on Saturday morning.

Nice produce, but soooo expensive. $6 for a pint of cherry tomatoes.
Artisans, musicians, flowers. 
It was a two for one day. The Atheneum was hosting an outdoor art show. What a lovely way to spend the morning.
The window boxes of Nantucket are more art for the eyes.
Lunch at The Brotherhood of Thieves. 
How many lobster rolls is this, Cindy?

A unique Nantucket thing is “Nantucket Red.”   Not just a color, but a fashion statement. These famous pants and shorts are recognizable as “Nantucket” everywhere. They aren’t really red, but are more of a pinkish hue, sometimes called “dusty rose”, “sunset pink” or even likened to a salmon filet, or a really bad sunburn. In the 1800s Breton fishermen tanned canvas sails with tannins from tree bark to prevent mildewing. When exposed to sun and saltwater, the red hue gradually faded. Leftover canvas was supposedly used by the fishermen for clothing. In the 1960s second-generation owner Philip C. Murray of Murray’s Toggery on Nantucket introduced a cloth similar to the red-sailed boats off the coast of Brittany in France. The “reds” became popular with East coast sailors and soon became known as “Nantucket Red.” And there you have it. For years I have tried to get Al to consent to a pair of Nantucket Red shorts, to no avail.

Cindy and I explored the famous Murray’s Toggery (that name alone is enough to want to check it out.) I had never gone into the store before. We pondered all of the red clothing. Knowing that neither of our husbands would ever wear the shorts or pants, we decided to secretly buy them Nantucket Red polo shirts. 
Ten days later, on Block Island, we convinced them to wear their new shirts. They refuse to wear them “out” together anywhere (understandably) so they did agree to don them for an onboard dinner. 

We continued our strolls through the streets of Nantucket and ended up down by the wharf and docks, naturally. Old North Wharf is a favorite place for a walk. This waterfront area was built in 1770, following the construction of Straight Wharf in 1723 and Old South Wharf in the 1760s. The original structures on Old North Wharf were all destroyed during the fire of 1846. ( “The Daughters of Nantucket” by Julie Gerstenblatt is a historical novel set during that fateful summer. It’s a pretty good read.) By the 1870’s, the area became bustling with fishing and sailing again. At that time, the wharf was full of boat builder workshops, fish shanties, and warehouses.

Today, many of the structures have been converted rental and/or hotel properties. A 2-bedroom summer rental cottage on the Old North Wharf can rent for $15,000 per week in July.

The Nantucket Islands Land Bank acquired two properties on Easy Street in 2015 and 2017, next to the old North Wharf, and converted it to an attractive waterfront park. Easy Street Park was designed to be a resilient waterfront park with a deliberate eye on flooding. The park has an elevated boardwalk, benches with views of the harbor and Old North Wharf, and sloped garden beds planted with native vegetation that tolerates flooding. A sand layer beneath drains water quickly to reduce flooding issues.

A wall in the Easy Street Park marks recent historic flooding events.
During every visit to Nantucket on our walks past the Old North Wharf, we stop to check that this old red rowboat is still here. “Sunken Ship” is still floating. While sitting on a bench in Easy Street Park we could see its port side. First time I noticed that view.
The Juice Bar opened in the 1970s and began making ice cream in the ’80s. For the past 25 years new owners have concentrated on making quality ice cream. Open from April through early October, The Juice Bar is a must stop on Nantucket.
That long line is worth the wait.
Enjoying our ice cream in Easy Street Park.

We only spent 2 days on Nantucket this time. Once again, with an eye on the weather and sea conditions, we decided Sunday was the day we should depart. Where to? Back to Martha’s Vineyard to visit Edgartown.

2 Responses

  1. Susie Marshall

    Looks like you had a nice trip to Nantucket. We loved our stop there…but like you said it can be expensive.

  2. Ellen Seltzer

    i LOVED this post…the pictures and please could you buy me “Blondie”? I agree about the wealth of the island…i have a friend who rents a pretty big house for 3 months every year…how nice to have that kind of money…i don’t understand though how you could eat a salad when you could have a lobster roll? we need to talk!
    it is a beautiful island…fun to explore and it looks like you had a great time…so happy for both of you! xo

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