Captivated by Charleston’s Charm Again

It is hard to resist Charleston’s charm, so we didn’t even try.  Be warned – This is a long blog post. I don’t want to forget any of this visit to one of my favorite cities of all time.

In 2013 we stayed at the Charleston City Dock on the Ashley River, known as the “mega dock” for 2 nights – very expensive! (Our 2013 visit –  Charleston Charm) This time we tried the other side of the peninsula at the less expensive Charleston Maritime Center in the Cooper River. The current is always an issue when docking here in Charleston, so we waited in the anchorage for slack tide, around 10:15 am.

Charleston is a busy harbor, with cruise ships, tankers, barges, fishing boats, tour boats, and pleasure crafts of all kinds. The Maritime Center is close to the cruise ship docks and the Port Authority.

A study in contrasts - tanker and a an old schooner.

A study in contrasts – tanker and a an old schooner.

Magnolia passing by the cruise ship. We all agree that we would rather cruise on our little ships than travel on one of these big boats!

Our friends on Magnolia passing by the cruise ship. We all agree that we would rather cruise on our little ships than travel on one of these big boats!

Across formt eh Maritme Center is a large old battleship. We assume it is not in use any ore because so many boats anchor near it or dial around it. The top photo is our Kindred Spirit - looks so tiny next to a battleship. Thanks Magnolia for the pic!

Across from the Maritme Center is the aircraft carrier, USS Yorktown (Thank you, Sam, for the identification!) on site at the marine museum. The top photo is our Kindred Spirit – looks so tiny next to a battleship. Thanks to Magnolia for the pic!

The Maritime Center is a good choice for staying in Charleston, primarily because of its price (especially when compared to the “mega dock”), its location (most of Charleston is within walking distance), its friendly staff, and the free laundry (that’s important to cruisers.) But, you have to put up with huge wakes from the river that will rock and roll your boat even while at the dock, and the busy sounds and sights of the Port Authority and the tour boats.

Approaching the Charleston Maritime Center

Approaching the Charleston Maritime Center

Kindred Spirit is settled into our corner of the dock.

Kindred Spirit is settled into our corner of the dock.

Carolina Belle, a tour boat, was right there across from us when at the dock. The dock above and in front of our bow (lower photo) is the same dock that Carolina Belle is on. At least the music they played was enjoyable and the people waiting in line were fun. A few came down the ramp on our side to talk with us.

Carolina Belle, a tour boat, was right there across from us when at the dock. The dock above and in front of our bow (lower photo) is the same dock that Carolina Belle is on. At least the music they played was enjoyable and the people waiting in line were fun. A few came down the ramp on our side to talk with us.

At the end of our long dock, which held three boats, was a wide catamaran, named Impossible Dream – look at the name and see what they did with it. I thought this was an awesome name, especially when we learned that this boat take handicapped veterans out for rides.

At the end of our long dock, which held three boats, was a wide catamaran, named Impossible Dream – look at the name and see what they did with it. I thought this was an awesome name, especially when we learned that this boat takes handicapped veterans out for water rides.

On land, across from the Maritime Center was a terrific city park with soccer fields, swinging benches under pergolas, and very cool playground equipment in the shape of boats.

We passed a strange old partial structure every time we took the back streets to the market or into the downtown region. It sits there in the middle of the Port Authority region. It bothered me that I did not know what it was, just sitting there surrounded by an industrial site. Google is so useful, isn’t it?? 😉

It is the Bennett Rice Mill façade standing at the center of the South Carolina State Ports Authority's Union Pier Terminal in downtown Charleston. The mill, opened in 1845, is considered one of the finest examples of 19th century American industrial architecture. In 1960, Hurricane Donna almost demolished the mill so the Port Authority built a steel frame to support what was left. 90% of the braced façade survived 1989’s Hurricane Hugo. In the 1990s, a series of restoration projects teamed local master masons with high school students to repoint the façade and repair the cracked brick arch. Considered to be one of Charleston 's architectural gems, the mill is continually maintained and monitored. My curiosity was satisfied.

It is the Bennett Rice Mill façade standing at the center of the South Carolina State Ports Authority’s Union Pier Terminal in downtown Charleston. The mill, opened in 1845, is considered one of the finest examples of 19th century American industrial architecture. In 1960, Hurricane Donna almost demolished the mill so the Port Authority built a steel frame to support what was left. 90% of the braced façade survived 1989’s Hurricane Hugo. In the 1990s, a series of restoration projects teamed local master masons with high school students to repoint the façade and repair the cracked brick arch. Considered to be one of Charleston ‘s architectural gems, the mill is continually maintained and monitored. My curiosity was satisfied.

Our first walk was to the City Market. Established in the 1790s, the market stretches for four city blocks. The entire market is a series of sheds with breaks at intersections and has been listed on the National Register of Historic Places. In the 1800s, the market provided a convenient place for farms and plantations to sell their products and as a place for locals to gather and socialize. Today the City Market’s vendors sell souvenirs and other items ranging from jewelry, spices and southern treats, clothing to Gullah sweetgrass baskets.

The “sheds” and structures vary in size and style, from fancier to utilitarian. Insides are the same. This photo shows one of the “fancier” sections. It’s a great place to wonder around for the afternoon – a “must do” in Charleston.

The “sheds” and structures vary in size and style, from fancier to utilitarian. Insides are the same. This photo shows one of the “fancier” sections. It’s a great place to wonder around for the afternoon – a “must do” in Charleston.

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Danetta gave me the green grass roses to go with it.

 

I had to buy another sweetgrass basket, or “low country coil basket.” I have a small one from the last trip and thought a slightly larger one would be nice for fruit or bread. They are pricey, but it is a souvenier that has culture and history behind it. Supposedly, the value of these baskets increases with age and they will last forever. I don’t really care about that, if it is even true. The most important thing to me is that it will remind me of our visit to Charleston and South Carolina.

 

On one of our walks, we passed a lovely white church, and then recognized it as the Charleston church where 9 people were killed in June during a mid-week prayer meeting. The oldest African Methodist Episcopal Church in the south, the Emanuel African Methodist Episcopal Church has always stood for freedom and civil rights. Founded in 1816 by blacks fleeing racism, it’s services were conducted in secret for many years. and was a part of the Underground Railroad. The congregation played a major role in anti-slavery movement, the Underground Railroad, and was burned down after a thwarted slave rebellion in 1822. Destroyed again by an earthquake in 1887 and rebuilt on its current site, the church has continued to be a focal point for the civil rights movement.

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Emanuel African Methodist Episcopal Church – It’s beauty, inside and outside, has survived years of turmoil and stands for freedom.

I signed us up for a culinary tour because Charleston is known for its food. My original plan was to do the “Downtown Tour” in the historic district, but that one wasn’t available, so I chose the Upper King Street tour. In the final analysis, this might have been good because we experienced a different Charleston than on our last visit. This “midtown” area had fallen on hard times by the 1970s. Few people would venture there after dark, Charleston natives and tourists. Over the past 15 years the neighborhood has been revitalized with galleries, boutiques, bustling restaurants and nightlife options. The renovations integrate new and old by utilizing reclaimed materials and architectural details with the new construction.

The Upper King Street Culinary Tour took us around the Cannonborough-Elliotborough neighborhood (King/Cannon/Rutledge Streets), a region that has emerged as an area showcasing culinary innovation, and numerous James Beard award winners and has been named one of the top 10 food neighborhoods in America.

Our tour guide, Guilds Hollowell, is a native son of South Carolina, fourth-generation. He certainly knew the history, the culture, the restaurants, and the secrets of Charleston. Here is a quick recap, in picture form, of our 2 ½ tour food and history tour —

HoM (pronounced “home”) - burger boutique and ping-pong lounge. We had a turkey burger, calamari, and a delicious flatbread.

HoM (pronounced “home”) – burger boutique and ping-pong lounge.
We had a turkey burger, calamari, and a delicious flatbread.

Cannon Green – doesn’t open until 5:30 pm but we got to walk through it. Exquisite décor with an outside courtyard and an interior that incorporated part of an older structure within the dining room.

Cannon Green – doesn’t open until 5:30 pm but we got to walk through it. Exquisite décor with an outside courtyard and an interior that incorporated part of an older structure within the dining room.

At Lana's, we had a tomato based fish soup and rutabaga pom frites. Thats' our guide, Guilds, chatting with us.

At Lana’s, we had a tomato based fish soup and rutabaga pom frites. Thats’ our guide, Guilds, chatting with us.

R Kitchen, on Rutledge Street, was opened by Ross Webb (my question – is it named R for Ross or Rutledge??), to be a “culinary collective” where 5-course dinners are served for $30. We heard that guest chefs stop by and cook and that reservations need to be made 3 weeks in advance. The building is so nondescript (and that’s an understatement) that you would never even know it was a restaurant. We sat at rustic dining tables out back on a porch.

R Kitchen, on Rutledge Street, was opened by Ross Webb (my question – is it named R for Ross or Rutledge??), to be a “culinary collective” where 5-course dinners are served for $30. We heard that guest chefs stop by and cook and that reservations need to be made 3 weeks in advance. The building is so nondescript (and that’s an understatement) that you would never even know it was a restaurant. We sat at rustic dining tables out back on a porch while the chef and Guilds served us and described the food – fish, chili and filet.

Sugar Bakeshop - former NYC architects turned bakers in the fall of 2007, Sugar Bakeshop has been committed to using fresh, local ingredients including farm fresh eggs, herbs from the borough's garden plot, and seasonal fruits.

Sugar Bakeshop – Owned and operated by former NYC architects turned bakers in the fall of 2007, Sugar Bakeshop has been committed to using fresh, local ingredients including farm fresh eggs, herbs from the borough’s garden plot, and seasonal fruits. The cupcakes were really delicious!

You would think we would be stuffed form all that food (and we were) but we couldn't pass by Jeni’s Splendid Ice Cream. No synthetic flavorings, dyes, or off-the-shelf mixes, just fresh stuff with a very unusual twist on flavor combinations. Al had the "darkest chocolate & double toasted coconut."

You would think we would be stuffed from all that food (and we were) but we couldn’t pass by Jeni’s Splendid Ice Cream. “No synthetic flavorings, dyes, or off-the-shelf mixes, just fresh stuff with a very unusual twist on flavor combinations.” Al had the “darkest chocolate & double toasted coconut.”

As we walked through the neighborhood on our culinary tour, this blue building was pointed out to us by Guilds. The family-owned men’s store, Bluestein's, was founded in the mid-1880s and later moved into their signature blue brick building in 1907. It survived a fire in 1987 and was rebuilt including the blue bricks ($45 each).

As we walked through the neighborhood on our culinary tour, this blue building was pointed out to us by Guilds. The family-owned men’s store, Bluestein’s, was founded in the mid-1880s and later moved into their signature blue brick building in 1907. It survived a fire in 1987 and was rebuilt including the blue bricks ($45 each).

Saturday mornings are Farmers Market day in Marion Square. Annette and I spent the morning there while Al puttered in his engine room. I definitively had the better day! This was one of the best Farmers Markets I have ever seen – variety of local produce, plants, herbs and cut flowers, breakfast and lunch vendors, live entertainment and an assortment of juried arts and crafts from local artisans.

A Farmers Market is the perfect way to spend a sunny Saturday morning. If I lived in Charleston, I would be here every Saturday.

A Farmers Market is the perfect way to spend a sunny Saturday morning. If I lived in Charleston, I would be here every Saturday.

Annette and I had a breakfast crepe to start our morning. Yum!

Annette and I had a breakfast crepe to start our morning. Yum!

For our last day in Charleston, I could not resist the urge to revisit the historical downtown streets, so we took a walk which turned out to be a long walk, especially for me and my leg. But it was worth it!

I have always enjoyed looking at a region’s unique architecture, and Charleston is a feast for the eyes. There are architectural features in Charleston that are worth repeating and photographing again (to me, anyway.)

A strong earthquake hit Charleston in 1886, estimated to be 7.3 on today’s Richter scale and the most significant earthquake have occur in the southeastern U.S. Many of the city’s buildings were left in ruins or severely damaged. Without enough funds to rebuild everything, buildings were stabilized by running iron bars from one end of the structure to the other, with iron bolts fixing them in place on the face of the structure.

Just two examples of buildings with earthquake bolts.

Just two examples of buildings with earthquake bolts. Although the bolts have a purpose they are decorative, too.

A closer look at the bolts show that some are made more distinctive than others.

A closer look at the bolts show that there is some variety.

Throughout the city, you can see what is known as the “Charleston single-house” architectural style. Wide piazzas (Charlestonese for porch) are built on the side of the house facing the prevailing winds. The houses are only one room wide, but that could be a 10 ft – 25 ft wide room, so that all rooms in the house have the advantage of the sea breeze. The home could be many rooms long and many stories high. The narrowest side of the house faced the street. This style was built throughout the 1700s and 1800s. Supposedly, at its peak, there were 4,000 Charleston single houses in existence. Today there are estimated to be around 2,700.

My favorite story about the Charleston Single house is the front door to the piazza/porch on the side. Known as hospitality doors, these portals were a way of communicating with friends and neighbors. Leaving the door open meant you were home and ready to receive guests – good old southern hospitality!

"Charleston Single Houses", a distinctive style

The “Charleston Single House”, a distinctive style.

Charleston’s ironwork is another architectural treasure. I found a nice description of the ironwork’s history on a blog called, Charleston Past.    “….Charleston’s love affair with the beauty of finely crafted wrought iron is evident. Charleston’s affinity for decorative wrought iron came about early in the history of the city. In 1772, a wrought iron communion rail was imported from England and installed in St. Michael’s Episcopal Church. Blacksmiths, who had made a career of providing nails, horseshoes, and wagon wheels to the growing city, now began to expand their craft to include patterns and scrollwork. The earliest designs were taken from British pattern books, but it didn’t take long for the ironwork of Charleston to develop its own style. Unfortunately, much of the earliest ironwork did not survive the multitude of fires and natural disasters that plagued those early inhabitants.”

From gates to rail to balconies to windows, and fences —

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Many of the homes have private courtyards with gardens that are just lovely. Like a secret garden, except that people can peak through the ironwork gate and catch a glimpse. We did.

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Many of the homes have private courtyards with gardens that are just lovely. Like a secret garden, except that people can peak through the ironwork gate and catch a glimpse. We did.

At the intersection of Meeting and Broad Streets, stands the “Four Corners of Law”, named such because the four buildings represent federal, state, municipal and canon law.

Southwest corner - United States Post Office and Federal Courthouse, built in 1896. Southeast corner - St. Michael’s Episcopal Church, constructed between 1752 and 1761 Northeast corner - Charleston City Hall, constructed between 1800 and 1804. Northwest corner - Charleston County Courthouse, originally constructed in 1753, rebuilt in 1792 for use as a courthouse.

Southwest corner – United States Post Office and Federal Courthouse, built in 1896.
Southeast corner – St. Michael’s Episcopal Church, constructed between 1752 and 1761
Northeast corner – Charleston City Hall, constructed between 1800 and 1804.
Northwest corner – Charleston County Courthouse, originally constructed in 1753, rebuilt in 1792 for use as a courthouse.

It was a long walk down to the Battery, the fortified seawall at the very tip of the Charleston Peninsula, originally used to help defend the city from Union attack during the Civil War. It is now a public promenade with a great view out over the water. We enjoyed the view and rested for a while in White Point Gardens.

White Point Gardens, a nicely shaded park for a walk.

White Point Gardens, a nicely shaded park for a walk.

Cannons line the Battery as a reminder of its original purpose.

Cannons line the Battery as a reminder of its original purpose.

Walking north from the Battery are the beautiful historic antebellum homes on East Bay Street. Although these are also in the Charleston Single House style, they don’t seem to make use of the open/closed door to the piazza to invite folks inside. Although the basic concept of the Charleston Single House style is seen all over the city, I could see the differences in neighborhoods and “status.”

The mansions along the Battery on East Bay Street as seen from Kindred Spirit on the water.

The mansions along the Battery on East Bay Street as seen from Kindred Spirit on the water.

And the view on foot as we walked by some of these gorgeous mansions.

And the view on foot as we walked by some of these gorgeous mansions.

We continued our walk northward, passing “Rainbow Row.” This section on East Bay Street, built between the 1720’s-1790’s, was considered the ‘slum’ area of Charleston after the Civil War. It was renovated in the early 1900’s and given the Caribbean colors that are still seen today.

"Rainbow Row", a touch of the Carribean influence.

“Rainbow Row”, a touch of the Caribbean influence.

We sure needed sustenance after all that walking! I had been asking everyone I met, cruisers and Charlestonians, where I could find the best shrimp and grits. I really wanted to try it again, give it a second chance. The first time I tried shrimp and grits was less than outstanding. The name, “S.N.O.B. was mentioned over and over – “Slightly North of Broad.” The bartender assured me that their shrimp and grits was simply the best.

S.N.O.B. = Slightly North of Broad

S.N.O.B. = Slightly North of Broad

Al ate Geechie grits with fried chicken and green beans - delicious, he said. My shrimp an grits were amazing!

Al ate Geechie grits with fried chicken and green beans – delicious, he said. My shrimp and grits were amazing!

It might seem as though we ate our way through Charleston, but the walking makes that ok. What could be better? The food and streets of a beautiful city. Charleston can really capture your heart with its charm.

With full bellies and wonderful memories, we said our good-byes to Charleston. Thank you for another great visit.

With full bellies and wonderful memories, we said our good-byes to Charleston. Thank you for another great visit.

Through the Waccamaw River

We made the next two days another new experience for this voyage by traveling in the ICW instead of going outside to the ocean. We heard the Waccamaw River is beautiful so off we went. In the cold! For three days (and nights) the weather was very chilly for these southern states. High 40s at night and only low 60s in the day. Our cabin went down to 50 degrees on two of the nights! I wished I had packed that extra comforter………….

Wearing 4 layers and my gloves! Thank goodness the sun is shining. Makes all the difference.

Wearing 4 layers, a scarf, and my gloves! Thank goodness the sun is shining. Makes all the difference.

We had to pass through Myrtle Beach before reaching the Waccamaw.

A very pink house and matching dock. Nothing much to say except, wow, that catches the eye.

A very pink house and matching dock. Nothing much to say except, wow, that catches the eye.

The 28-mile Pine Island Cut (ICW Mile 346.8-374.8) was the last section of the ICW to be completed, finished in 1936. The infamous “Rock Pile” (ICW Mile 350-352) in the Pine Island Cut, is a 2-mile stretch made of fossiliferous limestone. The danger sign is to warn you that it would not be kind to your hull if you ventured too close to these rocks. The Army Corps of engineers discovered it in the 1930s when they were working on this cut. The rock slowed their progress, required dynamite, and forced them to progressively narrow the channel. The cretaceous limestone at the lowest point is 65 to 144 million years old (end of the dinosaur age) and is loaded with fossils.

Danger - Warning! But we really didn't see any of these "rock piles", only a hint of rocks once in awhile. Perhaps because the stare level has been so high due to the recent flooding.

Danger – Warning! But we really didn’t see any of these “rock piles”, only a hint of rocks,  once in awhile. Perhaps this was because the water level has been so high due to the recent flooding.

 This stretch has a few bridges, high and low. There were seven 65-foot bridges.

An attractive 65 foot bridge. No I really don't remember which one it was!

An attractive 65 foot bridge. No, I really don’t remember which one it was!

Speaking of bridges, high and low, we were approaching one of the 65 foot fixed bridges width a narrow passage opening. We could see this tug ahead and radioed to him so that we could discuss our passage through. No answer. Twice – no answer. Another boater chimed in and said “he wouldn’t answer our call either.” So we went on ahead and made it through, but it was close.

Facing with an uncommunicative tug approaching us. Just don't understand why he wouldn't answer his VHF when we inquired!

Facing off with an uncommunicative tug approaching us. Just don’t understand why he wouldn’t answer his VHF when we inquired!

Swing bridges were the style for the opening bridges. There were four today, two of which required that we request an opening.

Little River Swing Bridge

Little River Swing Bridge

Barefoot Landing Bridge with a 31 foot clearance that was only 29 feet today. Either way, we can go under without requesting an opening.

Barefoot Landing Bridge with a 31 foot clearance that was only 29 feet today. Either way, we can go under without requesting an opening.

Socastee Swing Bridge opens with a line of trawlers coming through towards us.

Socastee Swing Bridge opens with a line of trawlers coming through towards us.

Tom Yawkey Wildlife Center floating swing bridge. AL thought floating was a great idea for a swing bridge.

Tom Yawkey Wildlife Center floating swing bridge. Al thought floating was a great idea for a swing bridge.

What is this?? We have no idea what this structure might be, but it sure caught our eye. Anyone know??

What is this?? We have no idea what this structure might be, but it sure caught our eye. Anyone know?? UPDATE: It is a VORTAC used by aircraft pilots for navigation. Thank you, Brian McCarthy! I love it when people answer my questions.)

Myrtle Beach is a golfing haven. There are over 80 golf courses in Myrtle Beach and some of the courses line the banks of the ICW. I am not a golfing fan, at all, but I can imagine this must be paradise if you are.

We could catch a glimpse of some of the golf courses because we were riding up on the flybridge.

We could catch a glimpse of some of the golf courses because we were riding up on the flybridge.

But this really was curious - Gondolas, overhead cable cars, at Mile 356.3 ferries golfers from the parking lot to the pro shop of Waterway Hills Golf Club. Like a ski resort!

But this really was curious – Gondolas, overhead cable cars, at Mile 356.3 ferry golfers from the parking lot to the pro shop of Waterway Hills Golf Club. Like a ski resort!

At times, there isn’t much new to see as you slowly travel along, but then, at other times, you just see interesting and curious sights, natural and manmade.

Red nuns and green cans – a graveyard or a repair shop?

Red nuns and green cans – a graveyard or a repair shop? They look so big when they are out of the water.

 I’m sure everyone remembers the recent torrential and constant heavy rains that hit the east coast, especially in South Carolina where it caused serious flooding. The Waccamaw River was above flood stage for 13 days. October 7th saw the third highest water level on record of 16.1 feet. By delaying for a few days, we hoped that the waters would recede before we reached this region. Even though our passage was almost 2 weeks after that record high, the Coast Guard still had small patrol boats out on the ICW asking boats to slow down enough so that they made little to no wake. Some of the homes are so close to the water and so low that boat wakes caused the water to rise up and into their homes again.

Look closely and you can see how low these houses sit to the water. It would take much to bring the water right back up to their front doors.

Look closely and you can see how low these houses sit to the water. It wouldn’t take much to bring the water right back up to their front doors again.

Some of the docks suffered form the flooding waters as well.

Some of the docks suffered from the flooding waters as well. Ramps aren’t supposed to go UP to the dock, and the other ramp leads to a missing dock that must have floated away. 

We finally reached the Waccamaw River, traveling along, but not always together, with our current buddy boat, Magnolia.

Magnolia cruising down the Waccamaw River.

Magnolia cruising down the Waccamaw River.

This section of the Waccamaw is lined with trees.

This section of the Waccamaw is lined with trees.

Magnolia and Kindred Spirit snugly anchored in Bull Creek off the Waccamaw.

Magnolia and Kindred Spirit snugly anchored in Bull Creek off the Waccamaw.

Spotted this crane at the edge of the water when we dinghied over to Magnolia for dinner. He kept his back turned to us. Maybe we should have invited him to dinner, too.

Spotted this crane at the edge of the water when we dinghied over to Magnolia for dinner. He kept his back turned to us. Maybe we should have invited him to dinner, too.

 Dinner on Magnolia with Annette and Anthony.

Dinner on Magnolia with Annette and Anthony.

The night is so dark and the stars and the moon shine much more brightly when you are out here. It was so nice to be away from it all. Just wish I had a better camera for photos like this.

The night is so dark and the stars and the moon shine much more brightly when you are out here. It was so nice to be away from it all. Just wish I had a better camera for photos like this.

Love the way the water reflects the trees in the early morning sun.

Waccamaw day 2 reflections-2 Waccamaw day 2 reflections

 Spanish moss drapes the living oak trees that line the Waccamaw River. It is lightly attached and does not harm the living oaks. It’s one of those sights that quietly states you are in the South, that you are not at home anymore. Spanish moss isn’t Spanish and it’s not moss. It’s an air plant that likes the water in the humid air. Historically, Spanish moss has had many uses – made into rope, used as gun wadding, mattress and furniture stuffing, and even air conditioner filters. (Just a little trivia.)

Spanish moss drapes the oaks.

Spanish moss drapes the oaks.

Even the dead trees are fascinating and interesting.

Even the gnarly dead trees are fascinating and interesting.

 Magnolia and Kindred Spirit parted ways on the second day, but we would meet again in Charleston. We anchored in Graham Creek (ICW Mile 439) after passing up the Minim Creek Canal and Santee River anchorages because the day was still young, and then deciding that Five Fathom Creek and Awendaw Creek anchorages didn’t offer the best protection or the best depths. This little creek was narrow and shallow at the entrance, but we managed just fine. We were tired by then and wanted to stop for the day.

Our anchorage in Graham Creek - How different the view was, depending on the direction you looked. One side looked over the marshes to the ocean and the other was lined with trees.

Our anchorage in Graham Creek – How different the view was, depending on the direction you looked. One side looked over the marshes to the ocean and the other was lined with trees.

Dawn over the marshes.

Dawn over the marshes.

Shortly after the sun rose, I looked over at the trees and saw this silhouette of Kindred Spirit. Really cool.

Shortly after the sun rose, I looked over at the trees and saw this silhouette of Kindred Spirit. Really cool.

These are pictures of different turtles, all from this one day. We are seeing many more turtles than we did on the first trip. Is it because we are now a trawler, and members of MTOA???

These are pictures of different turtles, all from this one day. We are seeing many more turtles than we did on the first trip. Is it because we are now a trawler, and members of MTOA???

These two large birds were soaring overhead. I tried hard to catch a photo of them!

These two large birds were soaring overhead. I tried hard to catch a photo of them!

Best photo that I was able to get. Is it a hawk or an eagle?

This is the best zoomed photo that I was able to get. Is it a hawk or an eagle?

Much of the time on our second day in the Waccamaw, we were flanked by grassy marshes on both sides, giving meaning to the term, “low country.”

Grassy marshes and the remnants of an old rice gate used to control the water in the rice fields.

Grassy marshes and the remnants of an old rice gate used to control the water in the rice fields.

 As we neared Charleston, the marshes changed to civilization again with more houses and resort communities on the Isle of Palms and Sullivans Island.

This was the opposite side of the ICW from the resort island communities. Just another one of those things that make you curious. What's the story behind it?

This was on the opposite side of the ICW from the resort island communities. Just another one of those things that make you curious. What’s the story behind it?

AIS - Cutting Class is the pink diamond at the dock (leftist). We are the upper right pink boat in the ICW. Magnolia is the lower pink boat heading towards the inlet entrance. I thought it was pretty cool that we were all there.

AIS – Cutting Class, Magnolia, and Kindred Spirit all in one shot.

 

I checked the Marine Traffic app on my phone and saw that Magnolia was close to entering Charleston Harbor from the outside. By using the “My Fleets” feature onto app, I can set it to show me which of our friends are near by.   Cutting Class is the pink diamond at the dock (leftist). We are the upper right pink boat in the ICW. Magnolia is the lower pink boat heading towards the inlet entrance. I thought it was pretty cool that we were all there.

The Ben Sawyer Bridge is the last one before we enter Charleston Harbor. This time we don't have to request an opening.

The Ben Sawyer Bridge is the last one before we enter Charleston Harbor. This time we don’t have to request an opening; we can slide right under.

Both Magnolia and Kindred Spirit anchored off of Fort Johnson near Fort Sumter for the rest of the day. Although it is a little bumpy out here in the harbor, this will allow us to move to the dock at the Charleston Maritime Center during slack tide tomorrow morning.

We have nice views of the southern side of Charleston from our anchor spot. Sure are looking forward to visiting Charleston again!

charleston2

Charleston

Charleston1

Charleston

And we had company for a little while from several dolphins swimming around our boat. I never get tired of seeing the dolphins. 🙂

Dolphins welcome us to Charleston

Dolphins welcome us to Charleston

From North to South Carolina

It was a little chilly, but the sun has felt wonderful after all those days (weeks) of clouds and rain.)

It was a little chilly, but the sun has felt wonderful after all those days (weeks?) of clouds and rain.

On Friday, October 16th, we left Southport and headed back into the ICW. In 2013, we traveled outside for this next stretch, exiting through Cape Fear Inlet and back in again at Little River, then out again and back in again in Wynyah Inlet. This time, in the interests of doing it differently, we are traveling inside, in the ICW.

It was a 5-hour day, traveling  33 nautical miles.

 

There was plenty to look at through this stretch of the ICW.

Just past Southport Harbor where we were anchored is a very nice marina, Southport Marina. as we passed by, we noticed another Mariner Orient, a 40 footer. Looks pretty similar to us!

Just past Southport Harbor where we were anchored is a very nice marina, Southport Marina. as we passed by, we noticed another Mariner Orient, a 40 footer. Looks pretty similar to us!

This was such a stately southern mansion. We both appreciated her fine lines.

This was such a stately southern mansion, sitting along the ICW, surrounded by trees and marshes.

Most of this section of the ICW was lined with large waterfront homes, each with their own docks and gazebos.

 waterfront homes1

myrtle beach waterfront homes2

We waved to this guy as he painted his gazebo. He did wave back without falling off his ladder. Question - How does he move the ladder?

We waved to this guy as he painted his gazebo. He did wave back without falling off his ladder. Question – How does he move the ladder?

Looks like this shrimper has seen better days.

Looks like this shrimper has seen better days.

This stretch reminded us of the Florida ICW with canals dug out like street for homes and their boats.

This stretch reminded us of Florida’s ICW with canals dug out like streets for homes and their boats.

I was watching the chart books carefully and looking for a sign, or something, that would let us know when we crossed from North Carolina to South Carolina.

The border between North and South Carolina

This is the  border between North and South Carolina, I think. It was as close as I could tell from the chart books. Why didn’t anyone post a “Welcome” sign???

Along a quiet grassy stretch, we could just see the head of this ibis peeking up.

Along a quiet grassy stretch, we could just see the head of this ibis peeking up.

Marshes on the west side

Marshes and creeks on the west side

Inlets on the eastern side

Inlets to the ocean on the eastern side

Not exactly part of the ICW's natural wild life, but definitely noticeable.

Not exactly part of the ICW’s natural wild life, but definitely noticeable.

We had made reservations at Myrtle Beach Yacht Club in Coquina Harbor for the next 3 days.

We knew form listening to the VHF that you turn just in front of the black and white lighthouse, a faux lighthouse.

We knew from listening to the VHF that you turn just in front of the black and white lighthouse, a faux lighthouse.

Coquina Harbor is a large man-made basin in North Myrtle Beach, near Little River. three marinas  fit inside-  Lightkeepers Marina, Coquina Yacht Club (a condo community), and Myrtle Beach Yacht Club at the far end of the basin.

We turned into the channel and wove our way to the back To Myrtle Beach Yacht Club.

We turned into the channel and wove our way among the docks to the back of the basin to Myrtle Beach Yacht Club.

Myrtle Beach Yacht Club had a good reputation, very reasonably priced and very friendly. The staff and the other boaters were cheerful and helpful. We were given a dock right near the office, the marine store, the laundry, the restaurant, and the pool. Very convenient. There is boardwalk around the  edge of the entire basin, but each dock has a locked gate so you felt very safe.

We were given a dock right near the office, the marine store, the laundry, the restaurant, and the pool.

Kindred Spirit nestled into her slip for the next 3 days.

The pool was "closed" for the season, but when I asked if I could use it that afternoon while I did my laundry, they said go right ahead, but the water is cold! I'm a northern gal, no problem. ;-)

The pool was “closed” for the season, but when I asked if I could use it that afternoon while I did my laundry, they said go right ahead, but cautioned me that the water is cold! I’m a northern gal, no problem. 😉

A little dock party get-together.

Making new friends  – A little dock party get-together. Bud (yellow shirt) was the first MTOA member we have met on this entire trip.

Staying at a yacht club for three days may sound like a vacation, and in some ways it was. Access to unlimited water and electricity is a luxury when you live on a boat. But this was also a good place to get some boat chores done, like the piles of  laundry. The boat also needed a good cleaning inside and out. Other chores are necessary, but not so much fun………

Each slip had its own pump-out station. For the landlubbers reading the blog, the pump-out is necessary for cleaning out the holding tank which holds the toilet waste. Get it? Here is Al with the "self-serve" pump-out.

Each slip had its own pump-out station. For the landlubbers reading the blog, the pump-out is necessary for cleaning out the holding tank which holds the toilet waste. Get it? Here is Al with the “self-serve” pump-out.

The refrigerator and freezer really needed to be defrosted. To speed things up, Al uses a little heat. Then I quickly get everything back into the chilling spaces.

The refrigerator and freezer really needed to be defrosted. To speed things up, Al uses a little heat. Then I quickly get everything back into the chilling spaces.

Hanging out at a marina did leave Al with a little bit of time on his hands. When he has time on his hands, he starts fussing with things. He has been frustrated with our solar panels at times. Although more powerful than on the Morgan, they seem to get shaded too often. If he had his way, he would probably invent some thing-a-ma-jig so that he could tilt and twirl both panels all over the place to follow the sun.

Playing around with the solar panels to get a better tilt on the back one and increase the amount of solar power.

Playing around with the solar panels to get a better tilt on the back one and increase the amount of solar power.

The result of his tinkering?For now, he has the back panel tilted like this.

The result of his tinkering?For now, he has the back panel tilted like this.

Each morning we took a walk on the boardwalk with our coffee, checking out the other boats. Every boater loves looking at other boats.
Coquina Harbor walkway Coquina Harbor wide view on walkLighthousemorning sun on grasses ICW

While doing our chores, we were eagerly awaiting the return of Magnolia’s crew, Anthony and Annette, from their road trip home to Washington, DC. We haven’t seen them in over a year. Their Magnolia is also a Morgan, a 44 Center Cockpit, and is very similar to our dear Morgan. Magnolia and her crew have had feature roles in my past blogs as our paths cross and criss cross. We will always share the bond of being members of the “freshman cruising class of 2013.”

Magnolia, patiently waiting for her crew to return.

Magnolia, patiently waiting for her crew to return. She is a beauty, isn’t she?

 

Rose and John, owners of The Officers Club at MBYC have a reputation for their awesome chicken wings, according to Anthony, Magnolia's captain. He ate those wings back in his youth at their former restaurant in New Jersey.

Rose and John, owners of The Officers Club at MBYC, have a reputation for their awesome chicken wings, according to Anthony, Magnolia’s captain. He ate those wings back in his youth at their former restaurant in New Jersey. After a serious taste test, we all agreed!

Anthony and Annette, Joe and Christine, their friends from Southport, and us. Another great evening with old and new friends.

Anthony and Annette, Joe and Christine, their friends from Southport, and us. Another great evening with old and new friends.

Next day? Magnolia and Kindred Spirit will travel together into the Waccamaw River.