It’s In The Timing

The next phase of our little cruise involved more timing than usual. Boating always requires timing. The timing (scheduling) of your own personal schedule often takes a back seat to timing the weather, timing the currents and tides, bridge openings…..and so on. We met some people in Provincetown while sitting around the fire pit, who had never been through the Cape Cod Canal because they had heard such awful stories about the strong current, up to 5.2 miles per hour. We explained that if you pass through the canal with a favorable current, meaning going the same direction you are, it will be ok. If moving swiftly concerns you, then aim for slack tide when there is little current in either direction. I always have to stop and look up which direction is ebb and which is flow through the canal because it is not intuitive to me. “Flood” tide is moving east to west and the “Ebb” tide is moving west to east, depending on your desired direction. 

We timed our departure from Provincetown for an almost slack tide at the Canal because that worked out best for us.

We had a good view of the floating structures on the inside of the arm that stretches around P-Town. There are a few people who maintain these houseboats out there.
Curious (always curious) I researched a bit and learned that Long Point was a small fishing community in the early 1800s with 260 residents, a post office, saltworks powered by windmills, a schoolhouse, a bakery. In the mid-1800s overfishing and a dying salt industry, not to mention the isolation, force the people to move to the mainland of Provincetown. Rather than leave their homes, they floated them across the water at low tide and resettled in the West End of P-Town. Some of these homes are still standing and inhabited to this day.
Wish I had known about these homes when we were walking in the neighborhoods. They are marked with plaques.

Back to the journey……

Very quiet on Long Point that morning. Just the shuttle and one person.
Now that is a CALM sea, just a tiny ripple.

We decided to skip a stop at Onset and push through to a harbor farther south in Buzzards Bay. We left Provincetown at 11:00 am and arrived in Quissett at 4:45 pm. Quissett is another harbor we had once visited years ago. We remembered it as quiet and peaceful. It still is, but it felt more crowded, especially on a weekend.

“The Knob” is the tip of land where Quissett meets Buzzards Bay.
Our view of The Knob from the mooring.
The sun set at the end of a good travel day. The view out to Buzzards Bay.

Quissett is lovely. I have read that it is considered the “quintessential” New England harbor. Makes a nice play on the words – Quintessential Quissett.” We just wanted to relax and enjoy the views, the peace, the boats.

Quissett is home to a fleet of wooden Herreshoff sailboats. Just a delight to watch sailing by.
Speaking of delightful to watch, the sailing classes were a a treat as well.
The water was incredible here. Silky and smooth, and a perfect temperature, IMHO. Even Al took a dip in the water so you know it was extremely nice.
Another beautiful sunset.
Al serenaded the setting sun with a conch horn.
A good day and a good harbor to explore by kayak.
We kayaked through the mooring field and by the Quissett Harbor Boatyard.
Kayaking lets you get close to the shore and shallows for a different perspective.
We kayaked around and out to The Knob.
Al kayaking out by the entrance rock.

Back to timing. After two lovely days in Quissett, we had to carefully plan our next travel day. Quissett Harbor is just north of Woods Hole. We have never transited Woods Hole Passage. Descriptions such as the following are not comforting —

~ “Woods Hole marks the difficult and sometimes dangerous passage between Buzzards Bay and Vineyard Sound.”

~ “Woods Hole is a naturally occurring, rocky, and treacherous passage, with shallow rocky areas scattered along both sides of the channel. The current is often strong running between Buzzards Bay and Vineyard Sound, mostly flowing at around 4 knots and occasionally as fast as 7 knots. ” Wikipedia

~ “Woods Hole is the Jekyll & Hyde of Massachusetts waterways — sometimes a placid and well-marked maritime thoroughfare, sometimes the most dramatic and dangerous mile of water on the coast.” Boston Center Cruising Guide

Therefore, the timing is important. Slack tide with a little push would be nice. But we had to match that timing with the current in Vineyard Haven and the bridge opening for Lagoon Pond and they all had to line up. The bridge openings were either 10:15 – 11:00 am, 3:25 – 4:00 pm or 5:00 – 5:45 pm, 7:30 – 8:00 pm. Decision: Leaving Quissett at 3:45 pm would put us at Woods Hole at 4:00, through the passage by 4:15 pm and set us up for a bridge opening at 5:15 pm and a gentle current with us.

Woods Hole Passage above and our route at each end below.
Keep an eye on the red nuns to the left, and the green cans to the right, and be sure you are following the path you intended. It wasn’t nearly as scary as I expected.
Woods Hole
Limerick went through first with fenders down on both sides, just in case. Neither of us will ever forget that first trip through the bridge in 2022. The bridge tenders for the Lagoon Bridge are aboslutely the best. So nice and considerate.
Pretty evening colors.
A unique engine cover at the dinghy dock. Had to take a photo and chat with the woman who painted it.

The next day we were all off doing different things. Don and Cindy went to visit a high school friend who lives right at Lagoon Pond and we went into town to wander around first before having dinner with our friends Colin and Diane.

Inside the Steamship Authority Terminal is a vibrant display of children’s artwork from 4th, 6th, and 7th grade students on the island.
We met Colin and Diane at The Black Dog Tavern.
Al finally had fried clams, his favorite.

After dinner we went the Martha’s Vineyard Film Center, a “member-funded 501 (c)(3) non-profit arts organization dedicated to screening the best in independent films, movie classics, documentaries, and world cinema.” This was our second visit there and we have always enjoyed it.  

Here is a new sight. A QR code posted on a marker in Lagoon Pond. A QR code???? It does work as you can see from the screenshot on the right. I have mixed feelings about this information style on the water. Showing my age?

We had been watching reports about Erin, the hurricane, and after careful consideration, we decided it would be best to cut our cruise short and head back to our homeports. Limerick has a long travel day back to Sea Cliff and prefers to have good sea and wind conditions. We needed to be back home on land for Al’s follow-up appointment to his cardiac ablation and did not want to risk a delayed return if the conditions were bad. Although Erin wouldn’t “hit” us here, the predicted 10 foot seas and 30+ gusting winds were not appealing for crossing open water between the islands. So, again, it is all about the timing.

We made the 8:30 am opening and went through the bridge first this time, no fenders needed because it was slack tide. Easy peasy.
An interesting and curious thing happened as we traveled down Vineyard Sound. Limerick was behind us but there was another boat very close to us on the AIS. Limerick’s AIS has not transmitted for years, only receiving signals from other boats. Al studied the screen and said I don’t see this boat between us and Limerick, it’s called “Bijou”. I thought for a moment. Wasn’t “Bijou” Limerick’s former name??? Sure enough, this Bijou boat was Limerick, suddenly transmitting again but under its old name, although Don had the system reprogrammed. We are all stumped on this one, but hey, let’s take it for a win.
Al is doing an engine check while we are underway. I really like having a camera in the engine room so that I can monitor and see that he is ok down there.
Almost home. USCG station, Taylor Swift’s house and the Ocean house all in one photo.

After nine hours, we stopped for the night in West Harbor on Fishers Island. Limerick would be departing at 5:30 am for their 11-hour journey back to Sea Cliff. Ugh, after the 9-hour day. Very hearty folks!

An evening photo of Kindred Spirit. A little different with the lights on inside.

We had a really good cruise again, although shortened. I missed visiting our favorite places on Martha’s Vineyard, but we did some new things this season which was really nice. New places in Newport, New Bedford, Provincetown, Quissett, and Woods Hole. It is good to change things up. But it is extra good to do it all with good friends. Extra good and extra special.

4 Responses

  1. Ellen Seltzer

    Glad you enjoyed your trip…as always very informative but – where’s the ice cream? Al’s clams looked yummy but there weren’t very many…glad you enjoy sailing with your friends…I feel like I know them! Continue to enjoy until it’s time to put The Limerick to bed for the winter! xo

    • watsons

      No ice cream in Quissett and we never had any in Vineyard Haven. We must be slowing down.

    • watsons

      It’s still fun to be out on the water but we are acutely aware that the years left are dwindling. But, until that time, carry on!

      Hope you and Jim are well!

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