Our next port was Provincetown. We had traveled there on Kindred Spirit #2, the Morgan 43 sailboat, probably 15-20 years ago. Why not make another visit?
There was a good opportunity for photos of Limerick while we were underway – close enough and the sun was shining on the starboard side as we passed by. The “right” side as in literally and for better lighting. We teased Don and Cindy – sales brochure photos?? Not yet! Neither of us are ready to give up our vessels.
Our first stop was at Onset just before the Cape Cod Canal so that we could stage for our trip through the Cape Cod Canal.
We anchored near Wicketts Island, just where we have in the past. It’s a good spot for the stopover. Onset is mostly just an overnight stop for us.
A lovely afternoon with plenty of time for a splash in the water.
The Cape Cod Canal is about 7½ miles long. It is an easy trip if you time it correctly and an awful trip if you are fighting the current. We planned our trip to coincide with the current to give us an extra push and speed. We had a nice clear and calm day for this transit, unlike the one in 2021 on our way to Maine when we could barely see through the fog.
The Cape Cod Canal Railroad Bridge is shortly after you enter the canal. It is vertical lift bridge that carries train traffic out to the Cape.
We were running about 11-12 knots most of the way, with the current. A lot faster than our typical 7.5 knot speed. That 12.3 kts SOG on the screen is the fastest we saw.
Out into Cape Cod Bay for the 20 nautical miles to Provincetown.
Wow. Sea conditions that everyone dreams about – calm with just a tiny ripple on the water.
The route from the Canal to Provincetown is pretty straight. The first sighting of Provincetown is actually the sandy arm or hook that creates the harbor.
That curving hook that forms Provincetown’s harbor has a lighthouse at each end. Wood End Lighthouse is a 39 foot brick lighthouse built in 1872 situated on the curve. Long Point Light, on the tip, was constructed earlier in 1827, where there was already a salt works and fishing village. The lighthouse was about to fall into the sea by 1874 and a new one was erected in 1875, out of danger.
As you come around the tip, there is a beach near Long Point Light. People take a shuttle from the docks in P-town to reach it.
A long breakwater protects Provincetown’s inner harbor. Al and I have vivid memories of our other visit here. The trip across Cape Cod Bay was fine with following seas and some wind. When we rounded the breakwater the winds were fierce and the boat made very little headway. So little that Al thought the engine may have stalled, but it was just the wind. Picking up the mooring was quite the challenge, but I managed it. Other boaters lost multiple boat hooks as they tried.
Standing 350 feet above Provincetown, the Pilgrim Memorial is the sight that says, “you are arriving in Provincetown.” The tower was built in 1910 to commemorate the Mayflower’s first landing in the New World in 1620 and drafting of the historic Mayflower Compact. After being blown off course, the Pilgrims found a safe harbor here and spent five and a half weeks exploring the area and meeting the Indigenous Wampanoag people. Plymouth Rock was the first settlement, but Provincetown is the site of the Pilgrim’s first landing in America. A distinction, I think, that few people are aware of.
After settling on our (expensive) moorings, we all walked to the Stop and Shop. Cruising on our own boats may sound glamorous, but finding groceries is often a chore. The store was less than a mile away, but it was a humid and hot day. That weather changes a chore to a burden.
The docks in Provincetown. The portraits on the side of the building were intriguing so I looked up the story behind them.
“They also faced the sea” is a tribute to them and other women like them who kept the town afloat while fishermen were at sea. From left, they are Almeda Segura, Eva Silva, Mary Jason, Bea Cabral, and Frances Raymond. (Photo by Ewa Nogiec) The five portraits mounted in 2003 on the Fisherman’s Wharf building have deteriorated over the years. There are plans to restore them although there are also plans to renovate the building and make it a restaurant.
Provincetown is a fascinating mix of historical, ordinary, and “colorful.”
Top: Public Library and Town Hall Bottom: Watsons Court 🙂 and a building under renovation. Al’s keen eyes took note of the original front door’s roof that has been left hanging. To be used in the renovation?
And then there are the colorful shops, wall murals, and posters advertising a certain style of shows. “Summer Camp” is the theme for this year’s Carnival, happening a few days after we departed.
So… what to do for our day in Provincetown? Drag show or whale watch? Not a difficult decision for the four of us because we love the outdoors and wanted to continue our whale theme.
We chose the Dolphin Fleet Whale Watch. The Dolphin Fleet has been involved in research and conservation efforts for its 50 years. Each trip carries a naturalist collects data and photographs all the whales sighted, allowing them to “track” whales over time with a technique called photo-identification. This data contributes to a better understanding of marine mammals and to protect them. Why is a whale watching company called “Dolphin”?
Ready for our day on the water.
I thought we would be going out to Stellwagen Bank National Marine Sanctuary to see whales, but we were just off the shore, south of the Bank. We could have taken our Krogens out there to see the whales. There were small boats out following the whale watch boats to find the whales.
We watched fin whales and one humpback. The fin whale is the second-largest whale species on earth, second only to the blue whale.
“Thar she blows!” A whale spouting air through its blowhole. This fin whale is well known and has been named “Skeg.”A pair of fin whales.
We could see the Race Point Lighthouse from the whale watch boat. Built in 1876 on the northwest point of Cape Cod, it stands 40 feet high.
After dinner, we all decided to go back into Provincetown for one last walk about. The marina provides a launch for free so we didn’t need to use our dinghy. The streets were still lively, but tame. We suspect that Wednesday evenings might be an off night for the “shows.”
Ice cream time! We tried Lewis Brothers Homemade Ice Cream making small-batch, hand-crafted ice cream since 1997.
The Dirty Rotten Vipers is a “gutter jazz” street band from New Orleans and Provincetown, known for blending traditional jazz with punk energy. They perform on street corners, most notably in the French Quarter of New Orleans. They drew quite a crowd and were fun to listen to.
We wandered down this unusual gallery-like alley between stores. John Eder was a local leather craftsman who died tragically in a house fire.
A shaky photo from a slightly swaying boat. The Pilgrim Memorial is still a shining sight above Provincetown. I really regret not finding the time or energy to climb to the top.
We enjoyed our trip out to Provincetown. It is a fascinating and colorful collection of nature, history, culture, and lifestyles.
Doesn’t quite answer your question about the boat company, but did you know all dolphins are whales but not all whales are dolphins, only the toothed whale can call themselves dolphins. Knowledge gleaned from docenting dolphin tours at HHI.
Ellen Seltzer
loved the pics…and the history lesson…glad you enjoyed the trip…xo
Prue Preston
Doesn’t quite answer your question about the boat company, but did you know all dolphins are whales but not all whales are dolphins, only the toothed whale can call themselves dolphins. Knowledge gleaned from docenting dolphin tours at HHI.
watsons
I didn’t know that! Thank you.
watsons
Thanks, Ellen. It was fun to do some new things and/or do old things again.